Monday, April 23, 2012


6th April

My Dad arrived in Tanzania to visit me on what would be his first ever time in Africa. This effectively makes me his guide, which I’m sure you’ll agree is a worrying prospect. He flew in to Kilimanjaro airport in the North of Tanzania, so I flew from Kigoma on the 4th in time to meet him. I can tell you for nothing, flying is much more luxurious than the buses. The flight took the best part of 2 hrs, the bus on the other hand takes 2 days with the extreme likelihood of screaming, crapping children being near or on you.. mmm
Sunset over the Serengeti


I decided to organize my Dad’s visit into 3 chapters. Trying to mix in things that I’ve not already done or to go to places I’ve not already been to. Therefore making the experiences new for both of us. Chapter 1 would be Safari – something I’ve already done lots of, but it’s a must for anyone visiting East Africa, its also right up my street. Chapter 2 We plan to climb Kilimanjaro.. not sure what to expect. Chris Moyles climbed it though so I’m optimistic. Chapter 3: Finish up with a  nice relaxing couple of days in Zanzibar.

8th – 11th April

Chapter 1: Ngorogoro and Serengeti

Dads wallet allowed us to do this 4 day safari in style. We stayed at some really nice lodges inside the national parks and might have had a few cheeky massages as well. Deep tissue of course. We went to much the same places as I went with Mum and Jules but with a very different experience.

A lone Bull in the rain

The highlight for me were seeing 5 hyenas on the hunt in the Ngorogoro crater. Our timing was impeccable. We pulled up just in time to see the hyenas hassling the flanks of an isolated group of buffalo that had fallen behind the main herd. After some time it was obvious they were going for a calf in the midst of the buffalo group. The calf did not look all that well and must have been ill or something. 

A picture that says it all

After some time the rest of the group escaped leaving just the mother and the calf. I have to say, the mother fought heroically but the odds were against her and she was getting tired. Every time she chased one of the hyenas away another would come and grab the calf, she would then chase that one away and the process would repeat itself. After a few minutes of this the hyenas became more brazen and began biting the tail of the mother. 

Mum strayed too far

Mum making a heroic charge 
Eventually, the mother strayed a little to far from the calf in pursuit of one of the cackling hyenas. This was the opportunity for the rest of the pack. The first to take advantage of the opportunity pulled the calf to off its feet by biting and pulling on a rear leg. As soon as the calf hit the ground, the rest moved as one and swarmed over the calf. The gory scene was part obscured by the long grass, we could however see the hyenas and hear the baying calf. It was clear that they were eating it alive. All this the mother watched from a distance of 30m. Every now and then she would work up the strength to charge them again but her efforts were rewarded with more bites from the now blood crazed hyenas until she eventually fled back to the herd. 

Outnumbered and outgunned, mum accepts the outcome

After about a minute the calf stopped baying at last, not long after this one of the hyenas broke from the kill carrying the calf’s head in its mouth.. Truly a gruesome spectacle.


We also got a great view of a cheetah up close and followed him as he strolled through the open woodland. The rarest of Africa's big cats. 

Cheetah

Cheetah


Cheetah


 Dads highlight was a herd of elephants right next to the road.






2 comments:

  1. Serengeti Safari fanatics and lovers of natural charm will agree, needs little prologue. The highest free standing hill, at 5,892 meters above sea level and 40 kilometer across, Mount Kilimanjaro has lots that makes it amazing. Africa is an area of remarkable things. From the driest deserts to the rainiest woods and incredible traditional attractions to fresh natural charm, this area has several locations which are unique in themselves.

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